NEW YORK MAGAZINE

This restaurant takes the all-you-can-hot-pot model to a grander scale: a 2,000-square-foot space with a second floor and balcony seating for those who like watching people’s hands dance around pots of bubbling broth. The décor is more contemporary and festive, signaling it’s a place for a night out. It also doubles down on the buffet experience with all-you-can-eat barbecue, though the quality of that (cheap) meat might turn you off. Tables are equipped with a single grill and electric burners for each seat; you choose a broth (pig bone, curry, kimchi, congee style, and so on). No, there isn’t quite as much variety when it comes to ingredients as at a higher-end place like Little Lamb. Meat, for example, means just thinly sliced fatty beef, lamb, pork, the usual offal, and a marinated chicken or pork that’s tasty with a kick of black pepper. But there are still more or less all the hot-pot favorites. Springy Fuzhou-style fish balls with meat fillings, “fish tofu,” a wide selection of vegetables ranging from seaweed knots to cauliflower, and sides like you tiao or Chinese crullers. It’s also a cheap place to drink as far as downtown is concerned, with Tsing Taos ringing in at just $3 — making it easy to embrace the party. — Chris Crowley